Introduction of 26 solid wood furniture painting process

2021-04-25

The surface coating of solid wood furniture is an important factor in the production of furniture in addition to the design of the product, which affects the quality of its products. Because furniture also needs to be ornamental in people's daily use, the surface coating of furniture is to provide ornamental construction and operation techniques. The same wood, the same shape, will have different effects when used in different painting processes.

The process of painting solid wood furniture is generally from the finished material (white embryo) to the polishing process, and the pre-processing of the material is very important.

Premium furniture white embryos must have the following prerequisites:

First, the wood has a beautiful natural texture;

Second, the unique structure, firm and beautiful;

Third, the wood is dry and processed finely;

Fourth, according to the quality requirements of the paint film, rationally formulate the finishing process, select high-quality paint, use skilled technology, and strictly control the operation of each process.

High-grade furniture white embryos must be brushed with lacquer varnish; when sanding, it should be smashed and carefully ground until it is worn; the water color between the coatings makes the color bright; repeated inlays ensure the smoothness of the finished surface. The thickness of the paint film must be guaranteed; the flatness of the paint film should be high; the finished parts should be polished. In addition to the above coating requirements, sometimes it is necessary to apply shellac varnish to remove the color of the coating to ensure the uniformity and clarity of the coloration of the paint film; to use the simulated wood grain method to make the ordinary texture material reach the precious wood texture; sometimes correspondingly Improve certain indicators of physical and chemical properties of paint film to achieve high quality finish.

Finishing process:

1, white embryo surface treatment

Use 1 to 1.5 wood sandpaper to remove glue marks and dirt, and remove dust. Use a pen to brush a mixture of shellac and alcohol with a ratio of 1: (7 ~ 8) of lacquer varnish, brush all the surface of the finishing, brush evenly. Dry for 7 to 15 minutes.

2, embedded insect glue putty

Use a sheller varnish with a ratio of shellac and alcohol of 1:6 to make a paste with the old powder (calcium carbonate), then add a proper amount of pigment, and use a foot Knife to fill the nail holes, insect eyes, gaps, etc. real. Dry for 15 min. The color of the putty should be based on the color of the paint film.

3, sanding

Use No. 1 wood sandpaper to grind the corners, and carefully polish the surface with the wood grain, sand to the wood wool, sand flat putty.

4, rubbing water old powder

The old powder (calcium carbonate) is firstly adjusted into a slurry by adding water, and then the desired pigment is gradually added to uniformly disperse the pigment. Hand rub with bamboo flowers. Dry for 1 to 2 hours.

5, brush thin oil (or shellac varnish)

Mix the novolac varnish with gasoline in a ratio of 3:7. Mix the painted surface with a bristle Paint Brush or a wool stylus. Dry for about 4 ~ 8h (brushing varnish varnish takes 7 ~ 15min).

6, sanding

Use No. 0 or No. 1 wood sandpaper to polish the surface of the finished surface, remove the particles and the remaining bristles, and do not wear off the base color and whiteness. Remove sand ash.

7, batch of putty

Putty is formulated with gypsum, novolac, water and pigment. The batch of putty should be softer, that is, it is a little thin. Use a horn scraper to fill the surface of the finishing surface with a batch of knives. It must be approved and scraped clean to prevent leakage, and the slippery and putty deposits. Otherwise, the wood grain is unclear and difficult to sand. Dry for about 4 to 8 hours.

8, sanding

Put the putty sand flat with the No. 1 wood sandpaper in the direction of wood grain, and do not scratch the putty and the white corner. Remove sand ash.

9, brush shellac varnish

Hand-painted shellac varnish with a 1:4 ratio of shellac to alcohol with a woolen pen. Dry for 7 to 15 minutes.

10, brush the water color

Dissolve the yellow (or black) powder in the boiling water, and add the ink to the depth according to the color. Brush by hand with a wool brush or a pig hair brush. Dry for 1 to 2 hours.

11, brush shellac varnish

Hand-painted shellac varnish with a 1:4 ratio of shellac to alcohol with a woolen pen. Dry for 7 to 15 minutes.

12, complex brush shellac varnish

Same as step 11.

13, color matching

In a shellac varnish with a 1:5 ratio of shellac to alcohol, add appropriate amount of pigment and dye to mix well. Use the wool pen and the size of the pen to adjust the color difference manually, so that the surface of the finishing surface is basically the same. Color matching is done with colored shellac (brew color).

14, sanding

Use No. 0 old wood sandpaper to gently polish the painted surface in the direction of wood grain, and remove the granules, leaving the bristles, and can not remove the color and whiteness. Remove sand ash.

15, brush nitro varnish 2 to 3

1 part of nitro varnish and 1.2 parts of banana water were mixed well and hand-brushed with wool stylus. Each line is dried for 30 minutes. Finally, dry for 12 to 24 hours.

16, complex shellac putty

The putty preparation method is the same as the second step. The nail holes, cracks, etc. of the recessed nail holes must be supplemented with shellac putty. The color of the putty must be based on the background color. Dry for 15 to 25 minutes.

17, sanding

Smooth the surface of the finished surface with No. 0 wood sandpaper, remove the bristles left by the particles, and sand the putty. Remove sand ash.

18, drag nitro varnish

1 part of nitro varnish and 1 part of banana water, stir well, and hand-drag with cotton balls. Dry for 1~2d or not less than 12h.

19. Sanding

Particles and smear marks on the finishing surface when sanding with No. 1 wood sandpaper.

20, drag two nitro varnish

1 part of nitro varnish and 1.5 parts of banana water, stir well, and hand-drag with cotton balls. Dry for 1 to 2 days or not less than 12 hours.

21, sanding

Same as step 19.

22, drag three nitro varnish

1 part of nitro varnish and 2 parts of banana water, mix well, and spread with cotton ball 蘸 nitro varnish wrapped in fine cloth. The paint film is required to be flat and thick. Dry for 1 to 2 days.

23, water sanding

Use a 400-gauge water-sand paper lining to fold the thick towel into a block, and wet it with soapy water to make the paint film smooth, smooth and dull.

24, rubbing wax

The polishing wax (sand wax) is wetted in kerosene or a homogeneous mixture with kerosene. Polish the wax head (with the yarn end of the flannel) and polish the mixture of wax and kerosene, and polish the matte surface of the water sand with force to make the paint film bright as a mirror.

25, glazing wax

The gauze is covered with a gauze, and the polished wax (oil wax) is applied to the entire polished surface, and then wiped clean with a clean sand head to make the polished paint film more smooth.

26. Renovation

Use a brush to smear the color of the lacquer, repair the water sanding, and polish the area after the wax is polished.

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